Everything you need to know and what to bring to your first time at a rock climbing gym.
So you’ve heard about rock climbing, maybe you’ve seen a couple Magnus Midtbø vids and want to know how to start climbing indoors. Welcome!
I remember planning to head to the climbing gym for the first time and not knowing what to expect. Since then, I’ve climbed at variety of crags and gyms across CA, OR, CO, WA, and even MN. And even then, sometimes I still feel that “first day at the gym” anxiety. So let’s demystify everything you need to know about starting indoor climbing.
The Top 5 Things to Know for Your First Time Climbing
When you show up at the climbing gym, head to the front desk and let them know it’s your first time there. You’ll fill out the waivers and get checked in and get your rental gear. Here’s everything you need to know before you show up!
- You don’t need any climbing experience to start climbing at a gym, and many gyms offer free intro classes. To get started climbing, sign up for an intro class or even a gym tour. The staff will take you around and show you the ropes (literally) and teach you important techniques and safety info. At most gyms, you can find a “free first class” deal either on the gym website or a site like Groupon. If it’s not free, expect to pay around $20-35 for an hour-long intro class. Whether you’re bouldering or interested in top roping, a class will help you get familiar with the norms and rules at that specific gym. Plus, you might even meet some future climbing buddies.
- Wear comfy athletic clothes and bring socks and water bottle to your first day at the climbing gym. For your first time climbing, I recommend long pants and a short sleeve gym shirt or tank top. Long pants are nice because they protect against abrasion. Make sure to wear socks because you’ll be in rental shoes and probably don’t want to be barefoot in those. You don’t need any specific shoes since you’ll swap your street shoes for climbing shoes at the gym.
- You don’t need to bring special gear and can pick up rentals (climbing shoes, a harness, and chalk) at the gym itself. Rentals are sometimes included in a day pass or intro class but are otherwise usually pretty cheap. In my experience, it’s usually something like $3-5 for shoes and $8-10 for everything.
- Show up early to your first day or class. All climbing gyms will require you to fill out waivers and emergency contact info. This typically takes about 5-10 minutes, so make sure to plan ahead.
- Pay attention to fall zones and be mindful of other climbers. As you walk around the gym, look up. Make sure you’re not walking where anyone could fall or swing out onto you. Some gyms have tape on the mats to indicate where fall zones begin, but many just rely on you to exercise common sense.
Basic Climbing Gym Etiquette
Climbing gym etiquette might vary depending on where you are and the norms of that gym. But here are a few general principles that basically all boil down to paying attention to what’s around you and being a generally kind, aware human:
- Be mindful of fall zones and overlap between routes. If there’s already a climber on the wall, they have right of way. As a loose rule of thumb (with exceptions) don’t start a climb if it will heavily overlap with another person’s or if you will be in their fall zone (or vice versa). Likewise, when walking around, look up! Be careful not to walk underneath a climber who could fall on you.
- If someone has just brushed the holds on a climb, you should let them be the first ones to climb it freshly brushed. Climbers will often brush holds to remove grime and improve friction when they’re projecting (working a problem/route over and over). You should let someone else have the first go at a climb and be the first ones to grime it up again if they’ve put in the work to brush the holds.
- Be mindful of the time you spend on your attempts. If there are a bunch of people waiting to try a brand new climb or just popular section of the wall, come back later. In general for bouldering, people give a climb one attempt and then back off to let others try. This is a “read the room” type thing and I’m sure there’s a lot of flex in this. For instance, if you fall right at the start and want to re-try it once or twice, go ahead, but if it’s obvious others want to hop on the climb, be considerate.
- When in doubt, communicate with other climbers. If you’re not sure whether someone’s going to hop on a boulder problem next or whether two folks are switching on a top rope climb, ask! Climbers are generally super nice people who are supportive of beginners. Likewise, if you’re not sure if your route will overlap or if you can pass a climber on a top rope, go ahead and ask.
- Don’t beta spray. Beta spraying refers to giving advice on the proper sequence or next moves for a climb. People have different tolerances and opinions on beta spraying, but it can be considered rude. So best to err on the side of caution. Part of the joy and fun of climbing is figuring out the correct sequence. If you’re dying to give someone advice, you can always say, “Do you want beta?” They may say no.
- Keep landing zones clear. Make sure your water bottle, chalk bag, etc. is away from anywhere someone could land on it.
Bonus Tips to Kickstart Your Climbing Journey
- Check out videos on climbing technique online. Hannah Morris is one of my favorite climbing YouTubers. She is closer to an “average” climber (though still crazy strong). And she has an awesome series on technique with Coach Be Fuller that helped me break into V4 territory for the first time. Geek Climber and Hooper’s Beta (more focused on training and injury) are also worth checking out.
- Make friends. Don’t sweat it if you don’t know anyone who climbs yet! You don’t need a climbing partner to start climbing. You can always boulder on your own or at many gyms, you can ask the front desk to make an announcement and see if anyone is looking for a belay buddy. Meeting and climbing with folks who are better climbers than me has personally been the biggest “hack” to leveling up my climbing.
- Check if your gym has an app or uses Kaya. Kaya is an app that many gyms use to document climbs. On Kaya, you can even upload and/or watch other climbers’ beta. When I was first starting out, watching climbers of similar stature send climbs helped me figure out new moves and sequences to try.
- Go to community events at the gym. Attending an affinity group or event like a women’s climbing group, students’ night, queer climbing night, etc. is a great way to start meeting people in the community. As a bonus, often these community nights hosted at gyms have cheaper passes or even free admission if you’re not a member yet!
Closing Thoughts
Climbing is an incredible sport with an even better community. Don’t be afraid to get out there and get started. It can feel intimidating at first, but you’ll be surprised at how quickly you progress.
Your sore forearms and fingers and first calluses will build up in time and you’ll be sending grades you didn’t know were possible!
If you’re interested in climbing outdoors, I’ve written up my own experiences transitioning from gym to crag. And if you want to open up a conversation about anything in this post, drop me a comment.
Get out there and crush it.
